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Author Topic: Back of the neck finish  (Read 37618 times)
P. Bass
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« Reply #30 on: July 08, 2011, 04:23:22 PM »

P.Bass,

Thank You so much for the time put in documenting what you did, excellent detail. I enjoyed reading it very much.

My pleasure. I am extremely pleased with the result.  
B.
Edit: I can't wait to see / hear about the new option. I'm sure it will be a spectacular feel & appreciated investment in anyone's new bass.
« Last Edit: July 08, 2011, 04:34:16 PM by P. Bass » Logged

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« Reply #31 on: July 08, 2011, 04:39:39 PM »

We are happy to offer a custom neck finish with the headstock and heel finished in our normal nitro and the playing area finished with a bit of Tru-Oil finish.  This would be a $200 option.

Roger

Wonderful!  I sure hope the oil app will be minimal. Can't wait for more news on this.
B.
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« Reply #32 on: July 18, 2011, 02:47:49 PM »

Another question for this thread:

My older RVJJ (1498, I think) has what seems to be a little thicker, lot shinier finish than my newer MV's (late 4000 serials) which have a thinner non gloss, satin type finish.
Is there a good/proper way for me to knock the gloss off my older RV such that it would be more like the satinesque finish on my new ones?

thx!

alan
« Last Edit: July 18, 2011, 02:52:38 PM by Chef » Logged
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« Reply #33 on: July 18, 2011, 03:01:44 PM »

Another question for this thread:

My older RVJJ (1498, I think) has what seems to be a little thicker, lot shinier finish than my newer MV's (late 4000 serials) which have a thinner non gloss, satin type finish.
Is there a good/proper way for me to knock the gloss off my older RV such that it would be more like the satinesque finish on my new ones?


Hi Alan,

Send it to Blair in Toronto!
Seriously, hit the back of the neck with some 280 or 320 grit sandpaper, just enough to cut the gloss.
The neck was originally like your newer one but all the playing has made it gloss up!

Roger
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« Reply #34 on: July 18, 2011, 05:17:26 PM »

I was pretty sure it was the pay time that turned it gloss.
Thanks Roger!
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P. Bass
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« Reply #35 on: July 18, 2011, 07:57:27 PM »

Another question for this thread:

My older RVJJ (1498, I think) has what seems to be a little thicker, lot shinier finish than my newer MV's (late 4000 serials) which have a thinner non gloss, satin type finish.
Is there a good/proper way for me to knock the gloss off my older RV such that it would be more like the satinesque finish on my new ones?


Hi Alan,

Send it to Blair in Toronto! .......

Roger

I'll tell you what - I would charge more than you.  Roll Eyes.   I've got a one-off & PROUD of it.  Grin
Seriously folks - Get yourself the new offering on your next build.
B.
Edit: This work was done on a Friday. I figured since there was already a number of memorable Fridays, I would proudly add to the list:
- Friday the 13th
- Good Friday
- Thank gawd it's Friday
- Black Friday ( thanks S.D.) & oh..the stock market.
- & now my personal fav.- Nitro Friday.
 
IN ADDITION: I'm going to add ANOTHER VERY special Friday to this list on this coming Friday, July 22nd,2011.
I'm going with a group of friends to my first Steely Dan Concert !!!  I have been a fan since the "Can't Buy A Thrill" album in the early 1970's. Used to play "Pearl Of The Quarter" & "King Of The World" from the "Countdown.." album when I was in a cover band in the mid '70's. LONG time ago & never had the pleasure to see a concert. Love doing overdubs of their stuff. Hope I can snap a pic or two. I have daydreams about getting to talk to Walter B. & I'm WAY too old for that.  Grin
B.  
Edit: It's now official, "Friday Of The 'Dan" is now on my list. Walter looks pretty "comfortable" these days. I love the guy. BTW he was playing 3 Sadowsky guitars, all w/ RW bd.



 
« Last Edit: January 31, 2012, 05:05:58 AM by P. Bass » Logged

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« Reply #36 on: September 12, 2011, 12:49:20 AM »

I wanted to try showing the slight darkening of the bare maple over the past few months which resulted from playing & damp wipe with a micro fibre cloth. It's difficult to represent well but here's an attempt. You couldn't pay me enough to put any oil on this.  Grin
B.



This one shows the slight lustre on the wood to demonstrate the smoothness & hard surface of the bare maple.
« Last Edit: September 25, 2011, 03:52:01 PM by P. Bass » Logged

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« Reply #37 on: October 03, 2011, 02:32:50 PM »

Great thread.  I'm seriously considering doing this to my beloved 4098.  Straight up natural finish MV5.  I'm gonna' do the Tru-oil, however.  I've felt that finish before and it's wonderful.  Still feels like wood, but feel a bit better about grain protection, and I think it even makes it look a bit nicer.
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« Reply #38 on: October 17, 2011, 02:08:24 AM »

I'm curious if anyone has contemplated ordering a bare maple neck on a build - nitro on headstock & heel.( & fretboard if maple). I haven't heard any opinions about that. As a point of interest, any "greying" (patina) that develops over time, (I'm talking in terms of many years), can be removed with a very light sanding & "whiskering" it again as I've described previously. This is a very simple process since there's no finish to remove. Just a handy fact to know for the possible new owner in a resale situation.  I really like the look of the patina on the bare maple. It's very minimal (hardly noticeable on mine as per the photos above), if you keep the neck damp wiped now & again, as you would do anyway on nitro. I really hope that Roger would build one for stock so someone else beside myself could try it. I hate to see it overlooked in the overview of builds. It's a revelation IMO. OH - & did I mention SLIPPERY!  Grin
B.
« Last Edit: October 24, 2011, 10:15:15 PM by P. Bass » Logged

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« Reply #39 on: October 22, 2011, 07:34:44 AM »

I'm in the same boat as Fran here I think - I'd love to do this, and since asking Roger about it some time ago I have had the Tru Oil sat here unopened ever since.

I've been pretty bad with buying and selling instruments the last couple of years but I've come to realise that my Sadowsky is very special and I know without doubt I'd regret ever selling it. So if it's here to stay I guess it can be tweaked a little eh Smiley

The thing is, my neck finish seems to have stopped bothering me and hasn't turned sticky for a long while now so although I'd love the feel of a worn neck like my previous Fender CS Pino (best finish I've felt) I'm still somewhat scared to have a go at this...
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« Reply #40 on: October 23, 2011, 12:36:48 AM »

I'm in the same boat as Fran here I think - I'd love to do this, and since asking Roger about it some time ago I have had the Tru Oil sat here unopened ever since.

I've been pretty bad with buying and selling instruments the last couple of years but I've come to realise that my Sadowsky is very special and I know without doubt I'd regret ever selling it. So if it's here to stay I guess it can be tweaked a little eh Smiley

The thing is, my neck finish seems to have stopped bothering me and hasn't turned sticky for a long while now so although I'd love the feel of a worn neck like my previous Fender CS Pino (best finish I've felt) I'm still somewhat scared to have a go at this...

If you're happy with the feel of the neck & there's no drag, then there's not much point in the operation.
BUT - if you are confident in your ability to do it well & decide to take off the nitro I would strongly suggest that you refrain from applying the oil treatment until you give the bare maple a fair chance. I can't stress that enough. Just follow my process & you'll be fine. ***Make sure you take off ALL the finish that you're working on down to the raw maple. This isn't something you want to do part way!!! Be sure to get it ALL.
AND - be very diligent in avoiding contact of the nitro dust, AND your uncleaned hands with the uncovered bass. Clean any dust from the coverings & maskings before removing them. It's not rocket science - just be careful. That stuff is deadly tacky.  AFTER you have disposed of the masking & coverings, have lacquer thinner to clean your hands before touching the uncovered bass. DON"T bring the solvent (lacquer thinner) anywhere near the bass. As a FINAL step, I also cleaned the back of the neck, the exposed part of the headstock & heel with rubbing alcohol on a CLEAN rag, to take off any possible trace of powder before I handled the bass. That won't harm the nitro on the remaining parts of the neck. *Bare fingers give a necessary feel of the surface while working with sandpaper on the bare maple but I suppose you could try latex gloves while there is still nitro powder in play. Just work with awareness of what's happening. It is a very exhilarating & satisfying undertaking.  
B.
Edit: One other thing - After cleaning my hands well of the nitro powder and scrubbing them with detergent soap to remove the solvent, my fingers felt somewhat tacky for awhile until they " toughened up" again. So give them a chance to overcome what you just put them through before judging your work.  Grin
« Last Edit: October 24, 2011, 12:34:44 AM by P. Bass » Logged

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« Reply #41 on: March 10, 2012, 04:26:00 AM »

Hey Fran, I'd love to see a couple close-ups of your "new neck" & maybe a comment about your work on it. Cool
Hope it's all you were expecting. Thanks amigo.
Blair.
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« Reply #42 on: March 10, 2012, 05:46:46 AM »

Hey Fran, I'd love to see a couple close-ups of your "new neck" & maybe a comment about your work on it. Cool
Hope it's all you were expecting. Thanks amigo.
Blair.

Consider it done, I've been quite busy with exams at the conservatory, but I'll be done with them on Monday and then I'll take my PJ for a photo session to document the back of the neck finish (or lack of) as well as the aging it has gone through in the 2 and 1/2 years that I've ben playing the hell out of it. Setting my camera on macro at the moment Cheesy
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« Reply #43 on: March 11, 2012, 12:57:46 PM »

As promised:

These photos show the limits between the 'naked' wood and the vintage tint nitro finish. I followed Blair's guide but also oiled the neck with True Oil gustock oil as per Roger's recommendation; it feels almost like bare wood, but a little harder, less porous. I never felt the nitro finish to be sticky at all until recently and then I decided to go for the same finish/feel I have on my double bass. I can't be happier.





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« Reply #44 on: March 11, 2012, 04:16:26 PM »

As promised:

These photos show the limits between the 'naked' wood and the vintage tint nitro finish. I followed Blair's guide but also oiled the neck with True Oil gustock oil as per Roger's recommendation; it feels almost like bare wood, but a little harder, less porous. I never felt the nitro finish to be sticky at all until recently and then I decided to go for the same finish/feel I have on my double bass. I can't be happier.



Congrats Fran! You did a great job. I like the way you did the side of the headstock with the hard line transition.NICE!
I hope you paid particular attention to "whiskering" the surface well with the 400 grit. That's where the silky feel comes from. Not sure I understand what you mean by "less porous" (with the oil application). Mine feels like glass & has the illusion of feeling harder than it did with the finish on it.
I'm really pleased that you had the courage to go through with this. You're gonna love it amigo! Nice thing is: now that the nitro is gone, you can always re-do any of it quite simply if needed. Did you have any problem with the nitro dust? Maybe it was less of an issue due to its aged curing. Mine was freshly sprayed.
B.  
« Last Edit: March 11, 2012, 04:47:43 PM by P. Bass » Logged

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